.being in the moment.

In an Asian Studies course I took last semester we were discussing the idea of Taoism – of being in the moment. My teacher brought up the example of surfing, as one of those acts in which you must completely absorb yourself in the moment. She said, that the second you stop to think about what you are doing, about the act of surfing [where you should place your feet, move your arms] that you falter and fall.

I don’t think that I ever remember the feeling of surfing unless I am actually up on a wave living it. That is why people get up every morning and do it again and again. Not in so much that it is a different ride every single time [which it is] but it is a feeling that is so intangible that you can’t commit it to the page or even to your memory.