Teeny tiny waves means no people out [except for cool, chill people that I heart - Earl, Warren, Steve, G., Este, Paulo, Oj, Bradley, etc]. It means paddling for waves that are about as high as my ankles [maybe, MAYBE mid calf] and prancing about on my board because I can. It means bringing out my goggles to look at the fishies and then losing my goggles on one of the itty bitty waves and not realizing it for another 5 minutes. It means listening to Steve talk about the implants he bought his special friend, their impending wedding and me asking to be flower girl.
I like small days, but we NEED to have another swell before the end of summer. Because I don't do North Shore and I don't want to surf in flatness for another 8 months. :(
I like small days, but we NEED to have another swell before the end of summer. Because I don't do North Shore and I don't want to surf in flatness for another 8 months. :(
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home