.finally.

After much flatness this week finally [finally] saw some waves. Today was actually considerably larger than yesterday [though it didn't appear so from the beach pre-6 am in the near-darkness]. Needless to say after finally working my way out through the channel I wanted to give up and go back in but stayed out for a while. Bradley said I need to take a break from surfing [my back is sore, probably from surfing every.single.day and swimming a mile yesterday] so I actually went in before 8.

I was talking to Layne yesterday discussing [the common subject of] how I would never ever date a surfer. He said that it was hypocritical to say that since I was one of them. I said that I would never be one of them. He said I am DESPITE the fact that I'm a girl [because apparently girls shouldn't surf everyday ... pft]. I said that I was going to date a non-surfer and surf everyday till my hearts content and leave him back on shore. Layne said that if I were ever to date a non-surfer it would never work because I'd leave him alone all the time to go surfing.

Should have waves into the weekend. Depending on whether or not the predicted and much-hoped-for NS swell actually arrives it may or may not be crowded. We shall see.

I want at least ONE MORE good swell before flatness pervades the south shore.