Tuesday, May 02, 2006

.first summer south swell.

The first south swell of the summer is supposed to have hit this afternoon/early tomorrow. AND I'M MISSING IT. Typically by this time of the year [ie. the month of May] I am safely ensconced upon my island and trying to rush waves much to large for me to handle let alone ride. I call A. and drag her out in 4-5 foot sets when Ala Moana is closing out and we get held under for so long that we can't tell the sky from the ocean's bottom and get scared and paddle back in.

Though it's possible that surfnewsnetwork.com AND The Honolulu Advertiser are spreading falsehoods. Let's hope.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

the swell isn't as large as forecast but the winds have been, at times, very mild. i guess it's your choice to make; would you rather have it glassy or big?

7:57 PM  

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