.surfing daddies.

Daddy stole my truck today so I was forced to resort to shortboarding or not surf at all. :( I borrowed G.'s 6'4 [which is actually Eddie's old board]. It was VERY, VERY crowded, probably because everyone found out that it was good yesterday and wanted to catch the tail end of the swell. Poop. And since I was on a shortboard I stood no chance whatsoever and paddled over to First Holes to play with the little kiddies who were getting surf lessons from their daddies [so cute]. One of the dad's kept telling his daughter to "Go, Go!" and that they needed to "commit to the wave or they'd go over the falls, because 9 times out of 10 they would make it if they commited to the wave."

I always thought that I wanted a Daddy who surfed who could teach me how but now I don't know. I already have a G. and a Ryan who tell me what to do ... I think having a surfing Daddy would be too much. But regardless, those are still very lucky little kids.

Back to longboarding tomorrow ... shortboarding requires too much patience and virtue.