.the start of Fall.

Despite my fear of shortboarding in big[ger] waves I sucked it up and brought out the beloved 5'8 four-fin that I have newly christened Shaniqua [okay, so I haven't really christened the board Shaniqua - I'm open to suggestions!]. I thought it was only 1-3 feet, but there were some bigger [maybe 4 foot] sets coming in every once in a while that forced me to paddle for dear life as I tried to not get taken out by all the guy catching the sets on the outside. Even though I didn't catch a single wave for the first hour I was out, I started actually "trying" when HB [haole Brian] came out and promised to stay out until 9 with me.
Shortboarding has a way of putting everything into perspective, making "small" waves appear "too big" and causing me, a forever-longboarder to start loathing people with boards bigger than 7' who almost decapitate me everytime they try to catch a wave.
Longboarders really do suck. I'll hate myself and my people until I grow either too bored or too frustrated with shortboarding and revert back to the dark side.
Afterwards I did breakfast with Tricia at Cooke St Diner which entailed her downing two breakfast entrees and discussions ranging from the soap-opera-esque drama that the 22 year old females [ie. us] have managed to wreak upon Concessions and lactating. I love surfers.

Tomorrow [Saturday] marks the first day of Fall leaving me to assume that the waves that we are seeing now marks the last of the south swell-age until April. I'm actually going to "try" and shortboard again tomorrow. Once I get used to the whole actually duckdiving under a wave without getting my butt whipped all over the place I'm sure the process will be a lot more pleasant.