.blackout.

It's hard to write about surfing when you black out on Halloween night while walking to the living room, fall, hit your chin against the frame of your wooden sofa, are subsequently diagnosed with a sinus infection [which apparently causes you to lose your balance] and kept from surfing in the a.m. under the threat of death [by your mommy].
I [finally] got a job and it's great and I L.O.V.E. it so much. And I still get to surf!
Assuming of course, my dad doesn't unplug the engine to my truck ...