.what you wish for.

Okay, when I said "go surf," I didn't mean EVERYONE had to go surf. Really! There are waves in country, GO THERE! I guess I should watch what I wish for, right?

Today was fun. It was very pleasant before the sun came up and the conditions were clean and it was empty. I enjoyed a few waves [that Layne forced upon me] and only almost-died once.
Mari and Amelia paddled out later. On one memorable set wave, we were on the inside and scurrying to make it out, and all I heard was Mari in back of me saying, "Oh my god, I'm going to die." I was laughing too hard to be scared. :)
More tomorrow.