.day off.
There was no 5-ish a.m. wake up call this morning so I was forced to drag myself out of bed to the sound of my own alarm. Got down to the beach around 6:30 just as Errol pulled in and we paddled out together. It was NOT 1-3 (no sign of the swell yet) but we're still hopeful for tomorrow morning. Or at least I am.
I've grown very spoiled with all the south swells coming in this season. Lucky, lucky, me. My arms are still exhausted from being worked (especially on the double session I pulled Wednesday, with Nat & Dars now that I actually have FRIENDS home). Needless to say I think I've gotten better at duckdiving. Kind of.
I ended up staying out until 9 a.m. because I HAVE THE DAY OFF. Glorious, glorious. Eddie was telling me this morning that the ocean is just a pot of stew full of our love for one another (if you knew Eddie you'd know he's being sarcastic) and I told him that in Hawaiian, wa, the ocean is also another word for amniotic fluid which means that everytime you enter the water you are returning, in a sense, to your mother's womb. There is someone that I used to know who would have agreed with that.
I also taught Joey that Grent's name was not Grant and that Errol's name was not Earl. I'm so useful.
I think I should get a gold star everytime I talk about surfboardshack (*ahem* boss). This morning Errol and Helmet guy were talking about selling their boards on Craig's List and I (at least made an attempt to) convinced them otherwise. Look at me tooting my own horn.
I've grown very spoiled with all the south swells coming in this season. Lucky, lucky, me. My arms are still exhausted from being worked (especially on the double session I pulled Wednesday, with Nat & Dars now that I actually have FRIENDS home). Needless to say I think I've gotten better at duckdiving. Kind of.
I ended up staying out until 9 a.m. because I HAVE THE DAY OFF. Glorious, glorious. Eddie was telling me this morning that the ocean is just a pot of stew full of our love for one another (if you knew Eddie you'd know he's being sarcastic) and I told him that in Hawaiian, wa, the ocean is also another word for amniotic fluid which means that everytime you enter the water you are returning, in a sense, to your mother's womb. There is someone that I used to know who would have agreed with that.
I also taught Joey that Grent's name was not Grant and that Errol's name was not Earl. I'm so useful.
I think I should get a gold star everytime I talk about surfboardshack (*ahem* boss). This morning Errol and Helmet guy were talking about selling their boards on Craig's List and I (at least made an attempt to) convinced them otherwise. Look at me tooting my own horn.
1 Comments:
hey, good job there. you get 5 gold stars for xmas.
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