.an early Christmas.

I'm EXHAUSTED, but today's session was just so good that of course, it warranted mention in this poor neglected blog. We took out Andrew (Iva's husband) this morning and he did REALLY well but I guess that's just how guys are ... they can do anything you throw at them. They have no healthy fear of death (ahem ... unlike myself). The surf report said that it would only be 1-2+ but I guess the swell came in early and it was solid 2-4+. Yikes, bikes. It took me around 20 minutes to get out to Big Rights THROUGH THE CHANNEL and I was so tired I almost turned around and went back in. We got out while it was still dark and it was only Doug, G., Andrew, Ken and myself so super mellow. I made the mistake of ignoring G.'s and Doug's warning of "outside" on one 5 foot set. I thought I'd made it under the first wave (and was about to pat myself on the back) when the whitewash sucked me back over the falls and into the inside. As I was floundering in the h2o G. shouts to me (cause there's another huge set coming in) to just throw my board and dive under which is just what I did, though I got my butt kicked as a result. After that I listened to EVERYONE and every warning of "outside" no matter how small it may have been. I caught a few good waves and went over the falls a few times (cause I hesitated ... dammit, I'm such a wuss ... and of course that's when I fall, not even actually CATCHING the waave) but I survived. I want to surf again tomorrow but I'm scurred. If I could just duckdive and make it OUT into the break I'd be fine ... but we'll see. :) Yay for south shore surf and an early Christmas present.

Oh, and ever since I got a lecture on my lack of enthusiasm for promoting surfboardshack.com I've been making it a point to get the word out. Sadly, if it were a contest, G. is kicking my butt since he manages to mention it in casual conversation much more than myself. Meh. In the scheme of things I think I will just take credit for HIS promotions since technically I was the one to tell him about it. :)

Go check it out. Surfboardshack.com. Surfboards are great presents for uh ... everyone. And even if you don't get one for someone else ... every once in a while you need to get a little something for yourself, right? Or at least that's what I tell myself ...