.671.
I actually paddled out with someone [and had actually planned to meet with them and surf with them] for the first time since my return home. Due to my newfound antisocial behavior, this is semi-noteworthy. It also reminded me why I don't like to surf with people ... and why I do [but more so, why I don't]. Opihi's new nickname is "number 671" as a result of his being the 671st reason as to why I don't like to surf with other people [they arrive late and make me wait around on the beach for them].
It is nice though, to have someone beside me, whipping me into shape. When Opihi is around I actually have to paddle and then catch the wave, because if I return to my previous spot beside him, wave-less, there will typically be some sort of hell to pay. He is the most peer-pressuring surf freind that I have, and I swear that one day, as a result I will either die or suffer seriously bodily harm. These days [and as a result of my old age] I've been content with just sitting around and paddling half-heartedly for waves [and catching only 3-ish a session] but now if a wave is coming towards me it's either paddle or die trying. Which is good in it's own "I-guess-I-have-nothing-better-to-do-than-move-my-arms-towards-a-purpose" way. And I had the best waves of my return so I suppose all this complaining about peer-pressure is in vain. Peer-pressure works. Gah.
And then, to equalize all the hard work, we went to L & L for some portuguese sausage and eggs and loco moco. Yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I will be so roly poly by the time his July 5th departure rolls around ...
Today was good and tomorrow should be "better" [ie. bigger] which means that I will probably wait until Sunday to try and surf again. All this swell-age is making it difficult for me to try to get back into the swing of things. But yay for everyone else [I guess, I'm selfish].
It is nice though, to have someone beside me, whipping me into shape. When Opihi is around I actually have to paddle and then catch the wave, because if I return to my previous spot beside him, wave-less, there will typically be some sort of hell to pay. He is the most peer-pressuring surf freind that I have, and I swear that one day, as a result I will either die or suffer seriously bodily harm. These days [and as a result of my old age] I've been content with just sitting around and paddling half-heartedly for waves [and catching only 3-ish a session] but now if a wave is coming towards me it's either paddle or die trying. Which is good in it's own "I-guess-I-have-nothing-better-to-do-than-move-my-arms-towards-a-purpose" way. And I had the best waves of my return so I suppose all this complaining about peer-pressure is in vain. Peer-pressure works. Gah.
And then, to equalize all the hard work, we went to L & L for some portuguese sausage and eggs and loco moco. Yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I will be so roly poly by the time his July 5th departure rolls around ...
Today was good and tomorrow should be "better" [ie. bigger] which means that I will probably wait until Sunday to try and surf again. All this swell-age is making it difficult for me to try to get back into the swing of things. But yay for everyone else [I guess, I'm selfish].
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