.day number 1.5.
Alas. Back in my teeny tiny, 30 mile by 30 mile landmass.
After just a one hour catnap on our last night in Vegas I crashed on the plane ride home, but did manage to drag myself out for a 2-ish hour of surfing [and even paddled over to Kewalos to surf with Mari and her dad which we all know, should earn me a big fat pat on the back as I am loathe to surf spots other than Concessions]. I saw Matt's dad as I was heading out. Said he forgot his contacts but said the waves were pretty good. Pretty good = scary after 5+ months of not surfing [and not having worked out]. Yikes bikes. It seems that no matter when I return home, the first day back there is always a south swell and an oogle billion number of people out in the water. So I got my sorry butt worked. On day number .5 [yesterday] I only caught a few waves, mainly because I was afraid of eating shit. But the less I thought about it [and how afraid I was of dying] the easier it was. Today [in keeping with tradition] I went over the falls, was held under water for very long periods of time, and nearly killed by a longboard [The guy was sitting on the outside and took off on a 4 foot wave and I couldn't make it around him and he couldn't make it around me, the last thing I saw was him falling off the wave about a few feet away from me. When I finally made it up for air he asked me if I was okay and I could say was "I'm" and then choked on the water in my lungs. He looked worried until I managed, moments later, to say "I'm sorry," to which he responded, "that wave was out of control." Yay]. And since I don't have a single penny of medical insurance following my graduation from college, dying or suffering bodily injury would have been a bad idea.
Warren saw me yesterday and said "hello." Surprising that they recognize me after I chopped off all my hair. Today I saw Uncle Po and Stan. Stan said he thought I was a Japanese tourist. [short hair and tanned = Japanese tourist] I also saw my "favorite" longboarder, Glen[iffer].
I thought I didn't miss it as much I really did. This will be one of the things [if any] that keep me from zipping up my still un-packed luggage and purchasing a one-way return ticket. Mari said she's giving it till December. We'll see.
After just a one hour catnap on our last night in Vegas I crashed on the plane ride home, but did manage to drag myself out for a 2-ish hour of surfing [and even paddled over to Kewalos to surf with Mari and her dad which we all know, should earn me a big fat pat on the back as I am loathe to surf spots other than Concessions]. I saw Matt's dad as I was heading out. Said he forgot his contacts but said the waves were pretty good. Pretty good = scary after 5+ months of not surfing [and not having worked out]. Yikes bikes. It seems that no matter when I return home, the first day back there is always a south swell and an oogle billion number of people out in the water. So I got my sorry butt worked. On day number .5 [yesterday] I only caught a few waves, mainly because I was afraid of eating shit. But the less I thought about it [and how afraid I was of dying] the easier it was. Today [in keeping with tradition] I went over the falls, was held under water for very long periods of time, and nearly killed by a longboard [The guy was sitting on the outside and took off on a 4 foot wave and I couldn't make it around him and he couldn't make it around me, the last thing I saw was him falling off the wave about a few feet away from me. When I finally made it up for air he asked me if I was okay and I could say was "I'm" and then choked on the water in my lungs. He looked worried until I managed, moments later, to say "I'm sorry," to which he responded, "that wave was out of control." Yay]. And since I don't have a single penny of medical insurance following my graduation from college, dying or suffering bodily injury would have been a bad idea.
Warren saw me yesterday and said "hello." Surprising that they recognize me after I chopped off all my hair. Today I saw Uncle Po and Stan. Stan said he thought I was a Japanese tourist. [short hair and tanned = Japanese tourist] I also saw my "favorite" longboarder, Glen[iffer].
I thought I didn't miss it as much I really did. This will be one of the things [if any] that keep me from zipping up my still un-packed luggage and purchasing a one-way return ticket. Mari said she's giving it till December. We'll see.
posted by crystal at 1:52 PM
2 Comments:
Wowo Hawaii sounds great
ew.
less surfing.
more spending time with your everything buddy.
that is all.
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