.work is for people who don't surf.
Today I: Woke up at 6 am. surfed, went to work, went back to the beach to surf with Opihi, Dad and friend, went home and took a nap, went to Brew Moon and D&B's. I'm pooped. On my midnight drive home [much past my bedtime] the truck in front of me had a bumper sticker that read,
"Work is for people that don't surf."
Which is so true. Because if I had a "real" job I wouldn't be able to surf [as much]. I don't know what people who live on this island do if they don't surf. Do drugs? Make babies? Life must be so dull.
"Work is for people that don't surf."
Which is so true. Because if I had a "real" job I wouldn't be able to surf [as much]. I don't know what people who live on this island do if they don't surf. Do drugs? Make babies? Life must be so dull.
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