.big rights.

The past few days it's actually been BIGGER than what I expected ["bigger" still being from my skewed perception, only 2-3 occasional 4]. Let me just say that shortboarding in big waves, when you can't catch big waves and have to sit on the inside, and can't duck-dive under the big waves when they come in, sucks. Does life go on? I hope so.

Concessions was crowded [again!] this morning so after an hour or so Brian and I decided to paddle over to [the completely empty] Big Rights and surf with OJ. That means that for the first time in MONTHS [with the exception of that morning where I surfed the inside of Second Holes with the little kiddies] I actually surfed another spot. Granted of course, the spot is just a few feet away from Concessions but another spot is another spot and I pat myself on the back. The rights at Big Rights actually are FUN and LONGER than Concessions and I wasn't so scared since I was on a shortboard. Maybe if Brian comes out tomorrow and Big Rights isn't crowded we can try our luck again. One wave I caught I rode for longer than the cumulative lengths of all my other waves [today]. Yes, that is how pathetic a shortboarder I am.

It should get small later this week so maybe I'll resort back to longboarding. My arms are starting to get sore from all the exercise.