.country.
It's already a bit (okay, very) late but regardless, I thought I'd extend a big fat
Happy New Year!
to all of you who (still) read this blog - especially when I fail to update it for weeks on end. Mahalo's and kisses and all that yuck.
ANYWAY, just wanted to put it out there that I FINALLY surfed country for the first time in my life - I don't believe all those times that we went in high school and "tried" to surf count as legitimate attempts. G. woke me up at the crack of dawn (grrrrrr) and picked me up (yay) and we drove down to Lani's and met up with some of his friends and Doug.
We (tried) to surf at the end bowl of Lani's but apparently I truly suck at it because I caught only two waves the entire time. I also got BOTH contacts simultaneously knocked out of my eyeballs when a gigantor set came in and I didn't duck underwater in time. I was SO BLIND. But luckily I found one of the contacts on the outside of my eyelid and G. had one in his pocket so I was okay. It was fun and what not but REDICULOUSLY crowded (seriously, people complain about town and Concessions? This was 592 times WORSE ... at least MOST town people know what they're doing and how to do it!) and there were a bunch of longboarders out there - for who knows what reason since it was at least 2-3 occasional 4 - teaching themselves to longboard and this guy on a red longboard ate it right in front of me and his board missed me by less than a foot. Meh.
Once we got in there was warm water to shower with - because G. is a freak who wakes up early to bring warm water in his little water jugs - and freakish north shore locals who stand on the side of the road and spit at cars who drive by.
Then there was yummy breakfast at a Haleiwa cafe (forget the name but they had delish potatoes) and Sunnyside bakery pie. Mmmmmmm.
I didn't go surf this morning (I was so lazy this past week I think I seriously surfed only two times) cause I was tired from our late-night escapades the previous night but all is well. The south shore is still flat and maybe I'll be able to drag my butt out of bed next weekend ... or even tomorrow. :)
ANYWAY, just wanted to put it out there that I FINALLY surfed country for the first time in my life - I don't believe all those times that we went in high school and "tried" to surf count as legitimate attempts. G. woke me up at the crack of dawn (grrrrrr) and picked me up (yay) and we drove down to Lani's and met up with some of his friends and Doug.
We (tried) to surf at the end bowl of Lani's but apparently I truly suck at it because I caught only two waves the entire time. I also got BOTH contacts simultaneously knocked out of my eyeballs when a gigantor set came in and I didn't duck underwater in time. I was SO BLIND. But luckily I found one of the contacts on the outside of my eyelid and G. had one in his pocket so I was okay. It was fun and what not but REDICULOUSLY crowded (seriously, people complain about town and Concessions? This was 592 times WORSE ... at least MOST town people know what they're doing and how to do it!) and there were a bunch of longboarders out there - for who knows what reason since it was at least 2-3 occasional 4 - teaching themselves to longboard and this guy on a red longboard ate it right in front of me and his board missed me by less than a foot. Meh.
Once we got in there was warm water to shower with - because G. is a freak who wakes up early to bring warm water in his little water jugs - and freakish north shore locals who stand on the side of the road and spit at cars who drive by.
Then there was yummy breakfast at a Haleiwa cafe (forget the name but they had delish potatoes) and Sunnyside bakery pie. Mmmmmmm.
I didn't go surf this morning (I was so lazy this past week I think I seriously surfed only two times) cause I was tired from our late-night escapades the previous night but all is well. The south shore is still flat and maybe I'll be able to drag my butt out of bed next weekend ... or even tomorrow. :)
posted by crystal at 2:59 PM
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