Friday, June 02, 2006

.coming home.

Didn't get to make it out to the h2o today cause I had to take Grandma to the dentish [for which she was being silly and making up funny excuses about why she couldn't go]. I was thinking about going out in the afternoon but after a one hour nap that dragged on for three hours I was feeling much too lazy to have my arse worked another time around in the supposed 3-5+ feet surf that surfnewsnetwork was promising.

Because I didn't surf [or partake in any physical activity] I headed over to Manoa pool to swim some laps and saw all of my beloved coworkers, my swim coach, and various regulars. I realized, there's coming home, and then there's coming home. I come home to my family, to my house, my room [from which I am displaced and now have to move upstairs], to my dog, ono local food, drinkable tap water, humidity. But too, there is something about coming home, and returning to a place where everyone knows you by face, where they watch out for you and take care of you.
So in response to Neal's constant taunting about why I surf Concessions: I surf Concessions because coming back to Concessions is like coming home. Where on any given day I see people I know, where I don't feel bad about lying to my parents that I'm surfing with [fill in the blank] because there will more than likely be someone out there [like Uncle Po] who will watch out for me and make sure that I'm paddling out on [and not for] the big waves. On land Uncle Po stands 5'2. In the water he around 7'0. And you'd probably have to sit out there, day in and day out to understand the reason why. Why Uncle Po can not surf for a month, and on his first day back, shake hands with all his friends, laugh about sharing the ocean, and still warn another guy that he's getting in the way. There is a stiff upper hand that rules the break, but if that's where you love to surf, that's home, regardless of the people [which for the most part I do adore] and the faults of the break. Home is home.

I got a call from G. tonight while I was out with my parents [yes, that is how lame and sorely lacking for entertainment and friend's] and he said he was surfing at Concessions tomorrow. My first 7 am. session of the summer and then guarding all day. I need a job [with medical insurance]. Someone hire me!

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