Saturday, June 03, 2006

.hoping for smaller surf.

The surf was surprisingly "good" today. "Good" being the general concensus by other surfers who actually caught waves.
I made it out to Ala Moana by 7:15 and it was already sunny and there was no good parking. I had to park all the way in the back of the key near the spot that Toe got her car broken into. I managed to paddle out through the channel between Concessions and Big Rights without getting tossed around too much. I caught TWO waves the entire time, the last one being a decent one despite the fact that I literally had throw myself off of it because there was a shortboarder in the way and I didn't trust myself not to kill him. Wah. I was sitting on the outside much of the time and was offered waves by the guys, but just smiled and shook my head. I like living. I must have been looking friendly today [which is an extreme rarity for me] because I smiled at another girl and she started talking to me [since we were the only girls out] about how it sucks to be the only one left on the outside during a big set because then all the guys shout at you to "go" when you really just want to make it over the wave without dying. Yup. I think tomorrow I need to wear a big sign that says "I DON'T HAVE MEDICAL INSURANCE." [Brian says that with my luck I'm going to catch malaria before the end of the week]. Yay for [hopefully] smaller surf tomorrow. 3-4 feet, which is what they promised today. I can't believe I'm praying for SMALLER surf. Shame on me.

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