.post gobble gobble.

Surfed with my Darsie for the first time in MONTHS. It was very [very] small but I guess that just goes to show you that it's not [always] what you're doing, but who you're doing it with.

I somehow ended up working on my day off. Go figure. So no Black Friday for me. But I still got free shipping, no tax on my purchases, and a free Victoria's Secret tote. Yay. :)

.gobble gobble.

Despite the somewhat stressful going-ons of this past week and today's flatness it was a very merry Thanksgiving nonetheless.

I'm thankful.

For days when grandma knows my name, eats her lunch and can laugh at my jokes.
A new job that I [still] heart dearly and which allows me to do the things I love [ie. SURF IN THE A.M.]
Very cool surfing buddies
G. [yes, gross, gag]
BFFS [y mejor amigas] on the mainland and at home
Family who are my best friends, my confidantes, my heros, my support system, etc.
Shortboarding [which I still suck at but love, regardless]
My new McDreamy which has me keeping my night shift for the moment ...
Wireless internet & Netflix

And all that good stuff. :) I'm about to pass out from all the gobble gobble in my tummy and lack of slumber ... Off to sleep so I can get up and surf with DARSIE.

.intense backup.

From a conversation this morning between the First Holes guys.

"_____ was getting mad at ____ cause he kept dropping in."
"Yah, what does he call it?"
"Intense backup."

Okay, so maybe it's only funny if you were there ...





It's still SO small. Grrrrrrrrrr.
But I have Sunnyside chocolate haupia pie. :)

.tsunami watch.

It was one of those really weird days where you wake up at 5:00 in the a.m. and listen to the news discuss an earthquake off the coast of japan, the tsunami watch that had been posted and then canceled by Civil Defense and then go down to the beach only to get loudly warned to stay out of the h2o by Civil Defense workers as they drive up and down the beach with their lights flashing and sirens blaring and get to watch as the helicopter flies by with more loudspeakers, chasing the surfers already in the h2o, out of the h2o.

FUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN.

G. and I were going to surf at 9 when the warning of strong currents and ocean surges went down but I was forced to finish a project. Instead we actually did go surfing around 12-ish and it was a very painful reminder of why I don't surf after 10 a.m. anymore. Too much sun, too much stupid people, too much wind and junky conditions.

There is going to be a swell tomorrow maybe.

There's a swell forecasted for this weekend! 2-3 PLUS on Friday. I'm so excited I'm almost giddy. And shortboarding in all the small waves has made me brave enough [and stupid enough] to think that I could shortboard in 2-3 footers.

There's also another [smaller] swell for next week. Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay.

And the Triple Crown has started on the North Shore. I think Mari guys went down for the kick off this past Sunday. I've never been to a Triple Crown event but maybe now that I'm actually in Hawaii when all the fun nonesense takes place I'll be able to partake in the fun? If not there's always the internet ... They think that this year about 2 million people will watch the Triple Crown ONLINE. Which makes sense [kind of] since there is no way 2 million people will ever make it down to the North Shore with their one-lane roads.

I didn't surf today because of Kona winds. Stupid Kona winds.

.a funny anecdote.

I was too tired [and disconcerted by the surf report] to wake up this morning.

But a funny story from YESTERDAY when I actually got up and got in the h2o ...

I ate it on a wave and subsequently slammed some part of my board into my shin. When I got out of the h2o G. recommended that I put a bandaid on it and some kind of ointment from his HUGE first aid kit. He held out two ointment packets and asked, "do you want the one with aloe [pronounced ALLOY], or the one without?"

And I said, "Alloy?! It's pronounced aloe [ah-loe] before I even realized what I was saying." [This because for four years away at college, my roommates would always correct me whenever I said "alloy"]

It's not funny after the fact, except for that Hawaii people can't pronounce words properly. That is all.

Hopefully I wake up tomorrow, though for what, I don't know.

What to write, what to write? There is no waves ANYWHERE. Not south, not north, nor east or west. G. is trying to convince me to surf Lani's one of these days [which is where there are all the TURTLES ... fun] but that seems doubtful if I have to be near my precious internet access to actually DO WORK. Since today is election day everyone has the day off but me. Even the pool is closed [and the pool NEVER closes except for Thanksgiving, New Years and Christmas] which says a lot. Today I longboarded for the first time in about 2 weeks - yesterday it was so small that all I did was paddle for waves on my shortboard and ride them lying down ... it actually made the waves look big [I'm such a dork]. Writing about surfing when there is no surf is useless. I miss summer.

.blackout.

It's hard to write about surfing when you black out on Halloween night while walking to the living room, fall, hit your chin against the frame of your wooden sofa, are subsequently diagnosed with a sinus infection [which apparently causes you to lose your balance] and kept from surfing in the a.m. under the threat of death [by your mommy].
I [finally] got a job and it's great and I L.O.V.E. it so much. And I still get to surf!
Assuming of course, my dad doesn't unplug the engine to my truck ...