.rainy days blustery waves.

I still love rainy days.


It's big, big, BIG on the North Shore (too big to surf, even) and blustery this morning and G. is finally home walking on my land, breathing my air and swimming in my h2o. I think all of his gambling/Vegas debauchery has tuckered the poor old man out so that he actually slept in till 6:30 (I think the blustery, rainy, overcast weather and of course, missing moi, helped) and we didn't get out to the beach till close to 8.

I met OJ's nephew who informed me that I was sassy and high-maintenance and lost a bet to Gay Bob. Apparently old surfer men notice more things than I'll ever give them credit for.

More surfy-surfy tomorrow.

Maybe try the 6'10 again ...

.merry christmas.

Yay me, blogging TWO DAYS IN A ROW.

Today I reluctantly woke myself up at 6 a.m. My favorites, Steve and Delbert, were already down at the beach when I got there and Delbert arrived bearing gifts of Zippy's omelet sandwhiches, beverages and a present for little old moi! We waited till the sun came out and paddled out (with Nat) and met up with Bryson H. out there who had made his mommy get up at 5 a.m. to wrap our Christmas. It was teeny tiny but clean conditions and I paddled in at around 8:30 to shower, change and hand out the sugar cookies that I baked (no small feat considering that I managed to turn off the oven once and forgot to start the timer twice). At least Brad liked them and Warren said he'd eat them even if they were black (cause he loves me).

Then I came home and ate (more) yummy bacon, butter rolls and eggs. I was rather "ba-humbug" this year (as those around me will vouch) but I spent all morning playing with my BRAND NEW MUMBLE THE ROBOTIC DANCING HAPPY FEET PENGUIN. :) Hands down the best present that I got this year. I heart "Santa."

Hope everyone had a fabulous holiday. The highlight of my day was the 3.5 hour nap in the middle of the afternoon.

.my surfer is cuter than your surfer.

I was Christmas shopping in T&C the other day (just two days before Christmas, mind you) with Kai and Dars when Kai pointed out a shirt to me.

"My surfer is cuter than your surfer"

Or something to that effect. Anyway, he said that that would have been a good shirt to get G. for Christmas (since we are madly brainstorming what to get for THE most impossible person to shop for ever) and it was actually a good idea, right? Unfortunately I couldn't find a male version of the shirt because T&C sucks toes (kidding, I love T&C!) and am going to file a complaint with Ryan.

This story doesn't really have a point, since I am still COMPLETELY at a loss of what to get G. for Christmas. I know, I know, it's Christmas Eve, but he's in Vegas until Thursday so technically I still have three more days ... assuming of course, that I find something at all. So if anyone has any ideas of what to get a surfer who already has everything, let me know ...

And while I was brainstorming for this entry I remembered that I used to (I think I actually still had it in the dresser in my old room, but my parents took the dresser out of the room so I don't know where it is anymore) have a T&C tanktop that read something to the effect of,

"My boyfriend surfs better than your boyfriend"

Not that I've ever had a boyfriend, let alone one who surfs, but I can dream.

Merry Christmas. :)

I just stole my little cousin's 6'10 Epoxy Costco board to take out tomorrow. I'm EXCITED. It's almost kind of like getting a new board for Christmas!

.day off.

There was no 5-ish a.m. wake up call this morning so I was forced to drag myself out of bed to the sound of my own alarm. Got down to the beach around 6:30 just as Errol pulled in and we paddled out together. It was NOT 1-3 (no sign of the swell yet) but we're still hopeful for tomorrow morning. Or at least I am.

I've grown very spoiled with all the south swells coming in this season. Lucky, lucky, me. My arms are still exhausted from being worked (especially on the double session I pulled Wednesday, with Nat & Dars now that I actually have FRIENDS home). Needless to say I think I've gotten better at duckdiving. Kind of.

I ended up staying out until 9 a.m. because I HAVE THE DAY OFF. Glorious, glorious. Eddie was telling me this morning that the ocean is just a pot of stew full of our love for one another (if you knew Eddie you'd know he's being sarcastic) and I told him that in Hawaiian, wa, the ocean is also another word for amniotic fluid which means that everytime you enter the water you are returning, in a sense, to your mother's womb. There is someone that I used to know who would have agreed with that.

I also taught Joey that Grent's name was not Grant and that Errol's name was not Earl. I'm so useful.

I think I should get a gold star everytime I talk about surfboardshack (*ahem* boss). This morning Errol and Helmet guy were talking about selling their boards on Craig's List and I (at least made an attempt to) convinced them otherwise. Look at me tooting my own horn.

.an early Christmas.

I'm EXHAUSTED, but today's session was just so good that of course, it warranted mention in this poor neglected blog. We took out Andrew (Iva's husband) this morning and he did REALLY well but I guess that's just how guys are ... they can do anything you throw at them. They have no healthy fear of death (ahem ... unlike myself). The surf report said that it would only be 1-2+ but I guess the swell came in early and it was solid 2-4+. Yikes, bikes. It took me around 20 minutes to get out to Big Rights THROUGH THE CHANNEL and I was so tired I almost turned around and went back in. We got out while it was still dark and it was only Doug, G., Andrew, Ken and myself so super mellow. I made the mistake of ignoring G.'s and Doug's warning of "outside" on one 5 foot set. I thought I'd made it under the first wave (and was about to pat myself on the back) when the whitewash sucked me back over the falls and into the inside. As I was floundering in the h2o G. shouts to me (cause there's another huge set coming in) to just throw my board and dive under which is just what I did, though I got my butt kicked as a result. After that I listened to EVERYONE and every warning of "outside" no matter how small it may have been. I caught a few good waves and went over the falls a few times (cause I hesitated ... dammit, I'm such a wuss ... and of course that's when I fall, not even actually CATCHING the waave) but I survived. I want to surf again tomorrow but I'm scurred. If I could just duckdive and make it OUT into the break I'd be fine ... but we'll see. :) Yay for south shore surf and an early Christmas present.

Oh, and ever since I got a lecture on my lack of enthusiasm for promoting surfboardshack.com I've been making it a point to get the word out. Sadly, if it were a contest, G. is kicking my butt since he manages to mention it in casual conversation much more than myself. Meh. In the scheme of things I think I will just take credit for HIS promotions since technically I was the one to tell him about it. :)

Go check it out. Surfboardshack.com. Surfboards are great presents for uh ... everyone. And even if you don't get one for someone else ... every once in a while you need to get a little something for yourself, right? Or at least that's what I tell myself ...

.perfect Concessions.

I've been neglecting poor surfboardshack, I know. Writing all day makes one reluctant to write, even if it is about something somewhat diverting. And all of the recent blustery weather (and even blustier conditions) doesn't really motivate me to get out of bed either.

But today I dragged myself out of bed since I promised G. (he threatned to go Country if I didn't)I'd bring a longboard. And it was GOOD. Perfect, clean, (not glassy, but great considering the previous week) semi-decent surf. I wanted to surf all morning, and would have if G. hadn't dragged me out of the h2o with reminders of an actual career (is it a career?) that I had to attend to.

I "said" that tomorrow I'm going to get up bright and early and surf. Too bad that now days that means surfing while it's still dark! I checked my handy dandy tide chart and on December 31 the sun isn't scheduled to rise until 7:09 a.m.! :( I need some night vision ...

.would you rather.

Would you rather ...

Surf perfect, clean 1-2 EMPTY conditions

OR

Surf crumbly, CROWDED 2-4+???

Seeing as how I can't shortboard the latter, I'd opt for the former.